Japan: Kyoto

Kyoto is one of the most amazing places I’ve ever visited. Luckily, while in Japan, I was able to visit Kyoto five times between 2004 and 2005, I was especially lucky to visit during every season, twice during the magnificient Sakura (cherry blossom) season, and to visit the Imperial Palace (it’s only open 2 weeks per year). It was a 2 hour train ride away from Nagoya (or 30 minutes by Shinkansen).

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan for 1000 years. During World War II a gentlemen’s agreement between the Japanese and the Americans meant the city was not bombed. Therefore, most Kyoto temples and castles are original and not reconstructions like elsewhere in Japan.

Where not to stay:

I didn’t book the first place I stayed in Kyoto: Toji-An Guesthouse. I doubted the sheets had been washed … ever. Some of the photos on Trip Advisor of this hostel are horrifying! Must have been cheap. At least there was a cute cat by the door.

Where to stay:

The second time I stayed in Kyoto, my older somewhat less flighty roommate picked the accomodation and it was wonderful. It was a foreigner-friendly ryokan (traditional Japanese hotel) with a cute garden courtyard and tatami rooms. The owner was a lovely and slightly dotty old man and the halls were lined with well wishes from travellers all over the world.

I could not tell you the name of the Ryokan, but it was a lovely place to stay. Avoid the hostels in Kyoto, stay in a ryokan.

Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages)

My first trip to Kyoto, in October 2004, was to see the Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages). The main feature of the festival is a historical reenactment parade, which I loved, but my much younger hipster companions got bored and went shopping. For more of my Jidai Matsuri photos click here.

I love the expression in this guy’s face.

I took some footage of performers carrying a portable shrine; and some performers throwing around feather-tipped spears (or whatever they are):

Apologies, the quality is dreadful. My camera may have been awesome for 2004 (Japan has the best cameras, obviously), but it’s still only just watchable.

Sakura

Each April Japan turns pink. The cherry trees burst into blossom (sakura), sake is drunk in copious amounts in the parks and Kyoto becomes the most crowded city in the world.

I went to Kyoto twice in April 2005 to see the Sakura: early in the season to see the pretty pink and white blossoms; and later to see the darker violet ones which bloom in Heian Jingu. It was there that I had an experience I’ll never forget: raining flowers creating a carpet of purple-pink throughout the zen garden at the Shrine.

Some of these aren’t Sakura, but pretty nonetheless.

Japanese girls in yukata crossing a bridge near Gion.

Heian Jingu

Heian Jingu is a prominent large Shinto shrine which is a replica of the Imperial Palace. It was built in the late 1800′s to commemorate Kyoto’s 1100th anniversary. It’s beautiful but not particularly spectacular if you have temple-fatigue.

This footage shows the wrap-around wings of the inner gates of the shrine:

It’s torii is one of the largest in the world, which makes for a great photo:

Forget about going anywhere in Japan without a hundred million people in the way. Particularly during festival season.

The best time to visit Heian Jingu is late sakura season: the cherry trees there are of a late blooming variety and they are MAGNIFICIENT when in blossom fall. I was very lucky to be there with a friend at the perfect time.

Throwing the sakura petals:

 

It was like a fairy tale land!

We were also lucky to see a traditional performance outside the Jingu:

Kiyomizu Dera and Matsubara Dori

The way up to Kiyomizu from Gion has been preserved from the Edo days. The shops on Matsubara Dori (street) sell traditional Japanese wares and tourist tatt, but are incredibly atmospheric. Google Street View doesn’t go there, but you can look at a 3D view here.

My favourite shop on this shopping district is this candy store. They sell a lovely cinnamon cracker coated in chocolate, strawberry chocolate and green tea yogurt. I came here each time and still have the tins the crackers were sold in.

Quick shopping tip:

If you’re keen on souvenirs in Japan, hold out to find a ‘hyaku-yen shoppu‘ (100 Yen Shop, like a dollar store or cheap store). They are far superior to those back home, stocking high quality goods for 100-200 yen. I could often find tatt in the souvenir shops on the Kiyomizu shopping street for three or four times the price I’d find it in a 100 yen shop.

Look for signs that look like this:

Kiyomizu: An incredible temple in an incredible place. It’s perched atop a mountain side, peering down back towards Kyoto. The wide balcony is humbling. The current buildings were built in the 1600s.

Kiyomizu-dera, late Winter, 2004

Autumn 2004

Spring 2005

 

It’s name means ‘Pure Water Temple’ and one of the things to do is to drink from one of the fountains: Otawa-no-taki, the Sound of Feathers Waterfull is diverted into three ponds, where you can drink the spring water for longevity, health and wisdom.

Kinkaku-ji

Everyone has seen photos of the Golden Pavilion at one point; it’s one of the most photographed buildings in the world. It nestles in the shrine Kinkaku-ji. The pavilion survived World War II, to be burned down by a schizophrenic novice monk in the 50s. Anyway, the current building was built in its exact image and is pretty spectacular. The gardens around it are the stock standard (but still pretty) Zen gardens.

 

Man, that’s an ugly beanie. What was I thinking?

Nijo-Ji

Nijo Castle is white, ornate yet spartan. Most of it is original: besides damage during typhoons this century and a fire which took out one of the palaces, most of the buildings date from the 1600s. This is important when you consider the similar castles elsewhere in Japan (except probably Himeji) were rebuilt in concrete during the 1950’s and 60’s.

Cool feature of Nijo-Ji? The Nightingale floors in the Ninomaru Palace. The passageway floors were designed to squeak when walked upon, a defensive measure to alert the Emperor of approaching assassin ninjas. Seriously.

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Imperial Palace

Only open once a year for two weeks at a time during Sakura season, the Imperial Palace is the official home of Emperor Akihito and his wife Empress Michiko. It’s not particularly special if you’ve already been to Japanese palaces (such as Nijo-ji), but hey, it’s something only the Japanese usually get to see.

I suspect when I went to see the Palace we weren’t allowed to take cameras. And it was pissing down, too.

Ginkaku-ji

The ‘Silver Pavilion’ at Ginkakuji isn’t silver, but it’s pretty enough. It’s nice, but if you’ve got temple-fatigue then it is a bit like all the others.

I’m pretty sure these photos came from Ginkakuji but it could be Nanzenji.

 

The label reads ‘Very Important Moss (like VIP)’. Hehe.

Suirokaku Aqueduct

Near Nanzen-ji (temple) is a Meiji era aqueduct which we found more interesting than yet-another-temple-with-zen-gardens. It was built in 1881 and looks bizarrely European in the Buddhist landscape.

Sagano and Arashiyama

It’s worth visiting the Arashiyama/Sagano district even though it’s out of the centre of the city. It has a beautiful bamboo forest and gardens, as well as plenty of wooden temples. And souvenir tatt shops.

Saga Scenic Railway

From Arashiyama you can take this cute red train on a spectacular ride across valleys, rivers and mountain sides. A guy dressed in a demon mask walks the length of the train posing with tourists and scaring children.

 

Again, shaky cam footage of the train route. The sound was unbearable so I muted it.

Kameoka at the end is not particularly exciting, but we did find this tunnel with some very non-Japanese graffiti. Fuck da common society? Hahahahaha.

You can take a boat back: well worth it if you’ve got the time:

Sanjusangen-do

The Hall of Thirty Three Spaces (between columns) appears to be an ordinary temple, if somewhat elongated. There are two cool things here: during the Edo period, archery contests were held here; and there also happens to be 1000 Buddhas inside. That’s a lot of Buddhas. Actually, they’re not Buddhas, they’re statues of the diety Kannon. You can see them here on Wikipedia.

Random Spaces

You can’t beat Japanese traditional malls. They’re dingy, badly maintained, rarely signed in English, and full of small independent shop owners.

They remind me a lot of the Central Markets in Adelaide (and the Queen Victoria Markets in Melbourne); produce and cheap Chinese imports are jammed in together. They’re marvellous to walk down; I haven’t seen anything quite like it except the Bazaar in Damascus.

Some quirky shops spotted in Kyoto …

Think of what ‘Mr Young Men’ could be selling …

Kyoto Station

Chances are it’s the first place you visit in Kyoto, but it’s worth a wander around. I’ve spent a bit of time in this massive building, waiting for trains. You cannot comprehend the scale until you’re standing at the very top, looking down.

The exterior of the station, as seen from the Kyoto tower.

Looking upwards to the massive Christmas tree at Christmas, 2004.

Looking over to Toji from the top; and looking back down the escalators to the train terminals. It has shops, a movie theatre, a hotel and government offices on its several floors. The main foyer is 15 stories high with a cascading series of escalators leading to the sky roof level. At the 11th floor, you can walk along the sky way, a glass walkway which goes the length of the building.

Kyoto Tower

To tell you the truth, the view over any Japanese city from on high is never particularly exciting. The fog and endless sea of concrete buildings is more depressing than you’d expect. At least Kyoto, however, has mountains surrounding it and you can spot the occasional historical building peeking from above the concrete boxes.

Toji, the pagoda from which the dreadful hostel got its name, is visible near the train station.

Sunset over the mountains.

Toji

It’s probably not worth seeking out, particularly as there’s hundreds of them around the place in Japan, but the Toji pagoda is a short jaunt from the train station if you’ve got a bit of time.